I was towing-in all morning, catching lots of nice, big rides on the right. Then the wind picked up and we went sailing. It was really offshore and pretty light, so it was hard to get on the waves. On this one, I finally got a gust to get on the wave. I didn’t think twice and I went for it. I could see the west bowl bending toward me. I thought I was going to be able to get around it but when I went down the face of the wave the wind stopped and the wave just said NO! So I ditched my gear and had a pretty crazy pounding. All good though, and I was ready for more. That place gets addicting and you always want a bigger and better one. What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger, so poundings are good sometimes. When you overcome your biggest fear at Jaws and you know what it feels like to be in a good-size waterfall — then you learn from your mistakes and you’re ready to charge bigger stuff! — Francisco Porcella
The Facts:
Sailor: Francisco Porcella
Place: Jaws, Maui
Wind: 12 Knots
Sail: 4.7
Board: 80-Liter Single-Fin
Photographer: Franck Berthuot
Ouch!!
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